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– What’s going on Chemical Guys crew? Today we have for your viewing
pleasure my 1998, Chevy S-10. Now I recently picked up this car, and in our last video
I showed you guys how to properly polish up any of the chrome or exposed metal pieces. And, like I said, the car was sitting
outside for a long time. It was never in a garage, so it’s one of those vehicles that sits outside all of the time. And just to show you, the paint is fully
contaminated with fallout, oxidation, anything else
that gets stuck in the pores of the paint, giving that rough feel and also rough look. So you can see it’s kind
of got this dull finish. So what we’re gonna do here is, we’ve already washed it to
strip away any old layers of possible waxes, which
I doubt this car has. And then we’re also gonna show you how to properly clay it today
using a medium Clay Bar, which we’ve already kneaded
up into a small patty about the size of three fingers. We’re also gonna be using some Clay Luber. So you just work it back and for here. This is gonna get really
dirty, really quick. But if you’re new to Clay Bar, what this is doing is it extracts
any of the contamination, or fallout that’s stuck
in the pores of the paint. You can see all that brown runoff. But this is a key step
in the detailing process, especially if you’re planning
on polishing the vehicle, and the reason being that this is going to help you achieve the best results. I’m gonna get a towel ’cause
just look how dirty this is. But this will help you
achieve the best results, because now you’re not
going to grind in any of the abrasive particles, or any of the filth back into the paint, which causes micro scratches or pigtails. Or if you’re going to skip that step, and go on to application of some glaze, sealant or waxes, or you’re
putting on a coating. You don’t wanna lock this
kind of junk in there, so you wanna make sure
that you clay it first, and it’s gonna give you
a nice smooth finish. And it’s going to actually make
it a better finish overall, because now there’s not going to be the fallout in your pad, which could, again scratch
up the paint even worse. Or else you could lock it
in there which gives you, for one, it’s not gonna bond very well, and two it’s gonna look just awful. So, Clay Bar, it’s kind of a tedious step, but it’s a very necessary step to get your car looking its best. So for today’s demonstration purposes, I’m gonna show you how to
properly clay this section of the hood here, and we’re also gonna polish it to revive that shine
and restore the gloss. (rapid spraying) (light scrubbing) (rapid spraying) (light scrubbing) It’s important to keep
it lubricated though because that’s what causes marring. Marring is the collection of micro scratches in
one generalized area, which makes your paint look very cloudy. (rapid spraying) (light scrubbing) (rapid spraying) (light scrubbing) Ah! (giggle) (brisk wiping) So as you’re clay barring, you see that the Clay Bar
get really brown and dirty because it’s collecting
all the contamination from the vehicle. That’s why you want to
roll it and knead it until you can’t find a clean edge. A lot of guys ask how often, or when do you have to replace this, and again, if you can’t find a clean edge, or if it feels really gritty, then it’s just time to throw it away. But that’s why we recommend
cutting this up into two or three pieces. This way you have some Clay Bar left over for the rest of the job and also if you should drop this, it’s just like a piece of gum where it’ll hit the ground, it collects all that kinda dirt and rocks, and you can’t bring that
back to the vehicle. You have to throw it away. Pulling out a small piece, not only effective for your pocketbook, but it’s also going to make it easier for the rest of the detailing job. But now you see here that the
vehicle’s nice and smooth, so now we’re gonna move on
to the actual polishing step. Where we’re going to be doing a two step, because this car is over 20 years old, and I’m pretty sure it
was a single stage paint. So we’re going to just
remove the oxidation and then just jewel that. So we’re gonna use two the
least aggressive approaches, being an orange Hex-Logic pad with V36 which is a cutting polish, and then we’re going to refine it with a white
Hex-Logic pad and V38. (light chatter) With the, face. So now we’re moving on
to the polishing step. We’re gonna be using V36. As I mentioned, we’ve already
clay barred the vehicle to remove all the contaminants that were in the pores of the paint giving this
really slick finish. And then we wiped it
down with Wipe Out just to ensure that there
wasn’t any lingering kind of residue or any kind of dirt. Now we’ve got our TORQ22D
which has the largest throw, and also it’s on a six inch pad because this truck has
a lot of flat panels, and it’s gonna save us a
lot of time and effort. Start by applying five dime-sized drops, or the size of one hex. And this is one of our
dual action polishers, which means it oscillates and also rotates in counter directions. As opposed to a rotary, where it would be in
one singular direction. And we’re also gonna apply a
little bit of pad conditioner, which helps to moisten the pad and this is helping it to
last as long as possible. This also reduces some of the friction that causes pads to wear out fast, and it also helps to kinda cut
down on any of the dusting. We’ll start here on this section. And what I like to do is I work from the center out in
a 2 by 2 ft. section, which is about your shoulder width apart. And on a lower speed setting,
we’re gonna spread this out, and then on a highest speed setting, when we’re using our dual action polisher, that’s how we’re going
to refine the compound or polish that we’re using, and it’s also going to
refine the paintwork. But a couple things to keep in mind is you wanna make sure that
the pad is completely flat, and also that it’s spinning at all times. This way it ensures that it’s actually
breaking down the chemical that you’re working with. And this way you’re actually
getting a correction, or a polish out of it. And also you want to make sure that that’s not dipping
or diving too much. And as well, you want to make sure the
machine is constantly moving, about an inch per second, that’s going to be your arm speed. And then you wanna work
it until your chemical, or you product goes completely
clear or translucent, and then you can buff
up any of the excess, and then you’ll check your work. (machine humming) (accelerated squealing) (machine grinding) So as you saw, the polish went basically clear, and our wiping it away with a
clean micro fiber towel just to check out work. But now the surface is really slick. Even after the Clay Bar it feels smooth, but now it’s gonna be really smooth. And this is the time where, you can either leave it
at this level of shine, or you can further refine it, which what we’re gonna do using V38. And we can more on to our
actual coating process, such as, it could be a ceramic coating, it could be a glaze,
seal and wax combination. Just something to make sure that we’re going to protect the surface, because now that we’ve refined it, we’ve also exposed a
fresh layer of clear coat. Which means that all kinds of contamination can
quickly clot this up giving that rough feel very quickly. So it’s important to put some
kind of protection on there before going out into the elements, or leaving it parked outside. The same process what we’re
gonna use, using the V38, but in the meantime you guys
can check out these products on our website If you like today’s video, be sure to give it a thumbs up. I’d love to hear what you guys
want to see me do this truck, or if you have any recommendations, or if anyone want to donate a cowl hood. That’d be great, but if not, still give us some love. Drop your comments down below, and we’ll see you guys next time. (upbeat music) (upbeat music) (upbeat music)

James Carver

69 Replies to “How To Properly Prep, Polish & Protect Your Paint! – Chemical Guys”

  1. The only products I'll use on my cars and company Vans. 💥💥💥💯💯🔥🔥🔥 #ChemGuysCrew

  2. Ls motor cowl hood 4l 80e trans with a 200 shot of juice 17 inch rims out back 16 in front wait I just told you about my 90 s10

  3. With a car in such a bad condition, I really dont understand why you wouldnt just use a degreaser and a fallout/tar remover in the washing step, and skip half of this obnoxious rubbing with the claybar.

  4. Great transformation Nick. Hydrocharge or hydroslick get my vote! After you coat it you're going to have to restore those headlights 😉

  5. I"m doing research on buffing since I just bought a 1 yr old car that has a couple scratches in the paint. Like to try and buff them out and then get the swirl marks out of the paint and apply a sealant of some kind. Graphene? Ceramic? Which pads to get?

  6. Can we see the other side of the hood done by a Rotary and finish the entire truck with a ceramic, glaze, sealant and wax process please ?

  7. Awesome video !! Check my channel out . My Mobile detailing truck is a s-10, I’m a head Detailer at Porsche and also running my own Mobile detailing business . Check it o 🔥🔥🤙🏼🤙🏼

  8. Awesome videos like always. Although do have a question. A little confused on what to use after correction VSS, I have Jet Seal, Black Light, Butter Wet Wax and now Hydroslick Ceramic Coating Hyperwax.

  9. I love how y’all use all kinds of vehicles for your videos. It’s not all high end, performance cars but it’s trucks and suvs and everyday vehicles! Definitely get the fee of how your products work on a variety of body styles and paint types!

  10. This is bizarre. I have an ‘09 Colorado in the same color that I did this exact process to over Christmas. My results were amazing!

  11. What is the best soap to use when washing my car. Last week I clean slated it followed up with the mirror glaze then threw on the hydroslick wax?

  12. Do you or your santa ana location provide detailing services as well oe just products? Im too scared to touch the oaint of my neglected black 20 year old car with heavy swirl marks.

  13. Generally I'd do a chemical decon first… clay will damage the paint. Disgusting clay will damage the paint even more. By removing contaminants with an iron remover, acid, whatever the product, you're limiting the damage to the paint that will come from claying. Limiting because it will still damage.
    For those who don't know, any contact is bad contact. Clay with extreme lubrication will still add micro marring. With a 20 year old clearcoat, though you will be polishing and protecting it afterwards, you want to cause the least amount of damage so you have more clear to work with.
    Nice video though guys!
    Salutations from Montreal, Canada.

  14. Cant wait to see this truck all done up and modified> Suggestions>>> Dual exhaust rolled 2 1/2 inch tips straight out the back old school looking, dark ish tail lamps, clear led headlights, Cowl hood, visor, black pinstripe

  15. S10 love here. I have an original 98SS. B4U code bought brand new and only has 43k on it.
    One question? What speed did you set your polisher at?

  16. Hi Guys i have a brand New Ford Ranger wildtrak 32.. Orange Color i want to make a wax the car only for protection.. What you perfer me? If i clay the car after i was the car and wax it is oky?

  17. S10s are tbe business and that one is coming back to life right before our eyes keep up the good work CG 👍😎 #LEGACY

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